Suspension Techniques Sway Bar Upgrade

FRONT

Here is the 1-1/8" front sway bar. It is much bigger than the stock one. More importantly, it works better.
Changing the front sway bar is one of the most noticeable improvements you can make to the suspension.

Here is the stock bar. (Front splash pan removed)
To remove the sway bar, simply disassemble both end links at the control arms then unbolt the U clamps at the frame bushing mounting points... easy.

  
Old vs. New.  You can see the difference in end links and frame bushings. Here are the subtle points:

• The new end link's are SAE and not metric (dumb and lazy mfgr in my opinion)
• The new frame bushing plate is secured to the frame with metric hardware but the U Clamp hardware is again SAE :(
• The center spacer in the new end link is too short and causes the sway bar to hit the tie rod at extreme turning points.
• The original end links threaded rods were very soft and easy to bend.
• There was rust between the original frame bushing plate and frame :(

Rust was hiding under this plate.

Yup, the metal was very fatigued and bent when removing. The tired bushings also were worse for wear and tear.

The new bushings and bar must be greased and placed on the sway bar before mounting. Placing them 25" on center while
aligning on bar helps.
Note, the dip in the bar is on the lower side, and the split in the new bushing is oriented towards the rear of the car.

Once the new frame bushing plates are bolted in place (loosely), connect the sway bar (loosely) .

Here it is again for comparison. (hefty hefty hefty... whimpy whimpy whimpy)

Next, install the end links (loosely).

Notes:

• The bolt head is on the bottom and the captive nut is on the top.
• The flat side of the bushing is pressed into each cup
• Grease every thing! (bushings, cups, bolts, nuts)
• The stack from top to bottom is:

nut
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
sway bar
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
spacer
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
control arm
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
bolt head

There is a cup built into the control arm.

For final assembly:

• straighten wheels.
• center the front sway bar with respect to the frame mounts (the distance from bar-end to frame rail should be equal on both sides).
• align bushing frame plates parallel to frame.
• tighten frame plates and U clamps.
• tighten end links.

Here is the disappointing problem with the Suspension Techniques Sway Bar kits.....end links... the spacer is too short and the tie rod hits the 
sway bar. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

REAR

The 7/8" rear sway bar is bigger.... but it is more difficult to install and has less noticeable effect when driving compared to the front sway bar.

Here is a view of the rear sway bars end link.

Here is a view of the frame bushing. It is coated with anti-seize (and some kind of rubberized under coating).
Wire brushing the nut helps in disassembly.

A view of a the lower end link to rear control arm connection. It is coated with anti-seize and is ready for removal.

Once the end links are removed, the frame bushings can be removed. Their lower plate has a tab on the front and a bolt hole on the back.
The plate functions as a lever that sandwiches the bushing and bar in place.
Removing the bar requires lowering the exhaust ~ 3"-4" and some Houdini tricks (no comments on this part except "Good Luck!")

Old vs. New. Note the notch in the red frame bushing. There is a corresponding "bump" in the frame mount.
Important: When installing the frame bushing with the notch up and forward, there are actually two possible orientations which are different.
The easiest way to get the orientation is to install the bushing with the slit towards the rear of the car.

Now the fun begins!  If you just enjoyed removing  the old bar and getting the new one in place, you will certainly enjoy this:

• grease the heck out of the bushings (inside and out side... spraying some white lithium grease in the mounting bracket may help too)
• place bushings on bar (notch is up and front, slit is middle and rear)
• hold bushing and bar up with considerable force while squeezing the bushing into the frame mount then drive the lower plate's tab into the slot 
  (as best as possible) and lift the bolt side up.
• quickly get a vice grip in place and squeeze the assembly while trying to prevent the bushing from squishing out (may have to poke it in place).
• secure with bolt (only loosely) then do the other side (good luck!)
• whewwwww!!!!!!

Remember, the bushing's notch is front and top while the slit is middle rear

Next, install the end links.
Notes:

• The bolt head is on the bottom and the captive nut is on the top.
• The flat side of the bushing is pressed into each cup.
• Grease every thing! (bushings, cups, bolts, nuts).
• The stack from top to bottom is:

nut
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
sway bar
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
spacer
cup washer (down)
bushing (down)
control arm
bushing (up)
cup washer (up)
bolt head

Final Assembly:

• center the sway bar so that the space between the frame bushings and sway bar bend is identical on each side.
• tighten frame bushing bolts
• tighten end links

Now get out there and cut up some roads!!!!!! :)